Don't import South African vines

For years I've tasted burnt rubber in some South African red wines. I get it mainly in Pinotage but sometimes in Shiraz and other wines as well.

I haven't written about it because I've never written a major South African wine article. I just believed I'm not a Pinotage fan.

Then the New York Times came out with an article this week revealing that there's a market backlash in the UK against South African wines for this distinctive burnt rubber aroma. Meanwhile, some South Africans deny there's a problem. Does this remind anyone of the '80s and the sudden proliferation of TCA?

Just in case, other grape growing nations should take a lesson from phylloxera and consider import controls on live vines and plant materials from South Africa. Maybe the aroma comes from something unique to that country. But the rest of the wine world needs to make sure whatever it is, doesn't spread.

Moneyball was never a good idea for a movie

It's popular to bash risk-averse movie studios. But when Sony Pictures canceled production on "Moneyball" just days before shooting, wasting $10 million in development and putting Brad Pitt on unemployment, it was a great decision.

As an A's fan, I would have seen it mostly to see people like Scott Hatteberg, one of the most knowledgeable wine aficionados in the game, and Art Howe playing themselves. But there aren't enough A's fans to reliably fill the Coliseum, much less movie theatres across the world. And as a story, "Moneyball" just doesn't seem film-worthy.

"Moneyball" was the most talked-about baseball book in more than 30 years; it's still referred to by TV analysts all the time. However, most of them clearly haven't read it, giving the book an outsized reputation that may have gotten it unwisely greenlit.

The story is about the Oakland A's and their front office outsmarting the rest of baseball in 2002. The problem is, the summer of 2002 was the last time the A's looked smart.

The A's didn't make the World Series in 2002 and haven't since. The players around whom the book is based largely turned out to be failures.

So what's the movie supposed to show? A pretty decent baseball team losing in the first round of the playoffs? Where's the excitement in that?

When the mainstream sports media mocks the book "Moneyball," they focus on ideas they don't understand, like why teams shouldn't bunt or hit-and-run much. They miss the main point, which is that the A's were trying to find values in the player market, like a hedge fund trader -- another reason this movie was poorly conceived. Who likes hedge fund traders these days?

The idea of arbitraging MLB players is a good one. Unfortunately, the A's suck at it.

Here are some of the alleged "values" the A's scored in "Moneyball."

1) Scott Hatteberg may be a nice guy who even opponents go to for wine information -- he's noted for seeking balance, whereas many ballplayers with money to burn just go for the big Cabs. But Hatteberg was a below-average hitter at first base, and now the A's are overpaying the guy they decided not to overpay seven years ago, Jason Giambi. And that's not working either.

2) Much of the book centers around the A's strategy for the 2002 draft -- picking college players with great statistics, and ignoring what scouts said about them. The A's abandoned this strategy within two years because it just didn't work.

3) Jeremy Brown became the poster child for the book as a catcher with a "bad body"; Billy Beane famously said to his naysaying scouts, "We're not selling blue jeans here." Brown did make the major leagues, but played only 5 games before retiring.

4) Nick Swisher and Joe Blanton, the two college players the A's nabbed with their first picks in 2002, are decent ballplayers. But the book makes a big deal of how savvy the A's were for avoiding high-school pitchers in the draft, as they are supposed to be riskier. So who was picked immediately after Swisher and Blanton? Two high school pitchers -- Cole Hamels and Matt Cain -- who are now stars. And the A's great current trio of pitching prospects (Cahill, Mazzarro and Anderson) were all drafted out of high school, the first two by Oakland.

5) The book mocks White Sox GM Kenny Williams for trading away relief pitcher Chad Bradford. Bradford was a useful bullpen part, but the guy the A's gave up for him, catcher Miguel Olivo, is also still in the major leagues. Hardly the robbery that the book makes it seem.

6) In fact, since the book was published Billy Beane has failed in almost every one of his trades, with the large exception of trading Mark Mulder to the Cardinals for Dan Haren and two other players. His major blunders include giving away Tim Hudson for nobody worthwhile, signing Eric Chavez to a huge contract while letting Miguel Tejada walk (Tejada played at MVP level while Chavez is finished), giving away Ted Lilly, giving away Marco Scutaro, giving up on John Baker, trading Huston Street at his lowest value for overrated Matt Holliday, signing Esteban Loaiza to a big contract ... and there isn't really much good to balance this.

Just look at the A's record today, after more than a decade under Beane. Moreover, while they have some nice young pitching, the A's have no offense in the majors, no major hitting prospects at AAA and only a couple of OK hitting prospects at AA. This does not look like an intelligently assembled team.

Brad Pitt was going to play Billy Beane. I can see that, because Beane's impetuous failures remind me of the cop Pitt played in "Seven." That movie had more action and meaning than "Moneyball," but the projects do have one thing in common: a depressing ending. Now if only we can get Morgan Freeman to lead Billy Beane away.

Pinot Days is better than ZAP

Like great sex or a great vacation, my only regret about Pinot Days is San Francisco is that it didn't last longer. I tasted so many quality wines, but I only tasted wines from 26 producers out of about 180.

This Fort Mason event is a nice contrast with another single varietal-focused Fort Mason taste-a-thon, ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates & Producers). ZAP is bigger, more crowded and drunker. At Pinot Days, the emphasis seemed to stay on tasting wine even late in the day, and the majority of "public" badge wearers were spitting, not swilling.

Of course, most event organizers would like to have ZAP's problems -- big crowds, ticket sellouts, so many producers that two whole hangars are needed. Pinot Days is on a smaller scale, with just one hangar and about 3500 attendees. Hopefully that's enough to support it, because the quality of Pinots was excellent.

Two exciting trends: 2007 seems to be a pretty good vintage. And the Pinots I tasted were not heavyweight generic reds -- most had light bodies and good fruit, without excessive oak. California Pinot had been beefing up in recent years but this seems a step in the right direction.

My favorite t-shirt at the event read, "Let me put my Pinot in your mouth." Below are my favorite wines.

Failla Peay Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2006 ($48)
Bright raspberry initially, great acidity, even a citrusy note. Floral hints. Complex and bright. 94

Merry Edwards Flax Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2006
Intense and complex. Raspberry, cherry, floral notes, hint of eucalyptus. You can smell the alcohol but I didn't taste it. 94

Dutton-Goldfield Sanchietti Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
A pretty wine. Cherry, raspberry, hint of fresh flowers. Very nicely balanced. 93

Failla Keefer Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007 ($45)
Bright raspberry with cherry. Light-medium body. All fruit until a little tannin and earth on finish. Delightful. 93

Morgan Double L Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2006
Dense cherry and raspberry, a little milk chocolate. Tannic. Fruity enough for now, but should age. Long finish. 93

Peay Scallop Shelf Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Very dense flavors in a light body. Cherry, darker fruit. Persistent. Excellent. 93

Roessler Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2007
Light raspberry with savory raw beef note and hint of mint. Complex, long finish. 93

Siduri Sonatera Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Very savory -- soy sauce, mint, cherry, some smoked meat. Fascinating. 93

Woodenhead Humboldt County Pinot Noir 2007
Spicy, dark cherry. Medium body. Tannic but well-managed. Lingering spiciness keeps it interesting. 93

Woodenhead Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Cherry and raspberry, full fruit wine with medium body. Pretty. Long finish. 93

Balletto Burnside Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Cherry and raspberry with some black fruit -- black raspberry. Hint of violet. Dense. very smooth mouthfeel, long finish. Well-balanced. 92

Dutton-Goldfield Freestone Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Dense black cherry with medium body; long finish. 92

Failla Occidental Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2006 ($60)
Complex and savory -- raspberry, licorice, milk chocolate. Light-bodied but intense. Tannic on finish. Should age well. 92

Roessler Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Medium-bodied, raspberry and soy sauce initially, cherry flavor that deepens on finish. 92

Siduri Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Cherry, some dark fruit (black plum). Intensely fruity, persistent. 92

Tantara Garys' Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2007
Bright cherry and raspberry with some mint. Very nice wine, if somewhat big. 92

Tantara La Colline Vineyard Arroyo Grande Pinot Noir 2007
Own-root, a Martini clone planted in the '80s. Intense cherry fruit with some minerality. Good depth. 92

Woodenhead Troika North Coast Pinot Noir 2006 ($120)
intense cherry fruit, medium body. Chewy tannins built for age. Hint of mint on long finish. 92

Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Willamette Valley 2006
Intense cherry, some raspberry. Full-bodied. The big style of Pinot, but a good one. 91

Dutton-Goldfield Devils Gulch Ranch Marin County Pinot Noir 2007
Intense, full-bodied, cherry and raspberry flavors, smooth mouthfeel. 91

Dutton-Goldfield Devils Gulch Ranch Marin County Pinot Noir 2006
Pretty, with cherry, raspberry and floral notes. A little more tannic than the '07, but nicely managed. 91

Freeman Akiko's Cuvee Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Pretty and almost perfumey, with light cherry and floral notes. 91

Papapietro Perry Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Light cherry, some licorice and raspberry. Gentle but persistent. 91

Peay Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Light cherry fruit with a savory beef tartare note. 91

Peay Pomarium Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2006
Bright cherry, also a savory beef tartare note and hint of mint. Delicate. 91

Testarossa Garys' Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2007
Light cherry with a hint of mint; lightly tannic. 91

Balletto Estate Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007 ($20)
Cherry fruit, a little mint, light body, pleasant. Outstanding value for $20. 90

Balletto Winery Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Dense cherry, fuller body, somewhat tannic. Built for aging. 90

Chronicle Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2006
Some sulfur in the aroma, but it blows off. Palate is cherry fruit with appealing savory notes and floral hints. The tannins could still use some time, but promising wine. 90

Domaine Serene Winery Hill Vineyard Willamette Valley 2005
Bright cherry, all fruit. Soft and intense, medium-full body, hint of soy sauce on finish. 90

Failla Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007 ($34)
Intense cherry, overripe black plum, a savory soy note. Good value. 90

Freeman Keefer Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Bright cherry, persistent. Light body. Straightforward. 90

Macrostie Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Bright raspberry, a little violet. Nice soft mouthfeel. 90

Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Light raspberry, cherry, some soy sauce. Light body, good balance. 90

Morgan Rosella's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2006
Raspberry, blueberry, a little vanilla, a savory soy sauce note. Light bodied. 90

Papapietro Perry 777 Clones Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Light body, cherry flavor, seamless. Easy to enjoy. 90

Siduri Keefer Ranch Green Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Raspberry, violet, a green plum note. Tannic but controlled; could use a year. 90

Siduri Rosella's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2007
Cherry fruit with some savory notes. 90

Tantara Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Straightforward with good fruit -- cherry and raspberry. 90

Verve Stoller Vineyard Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2007
Very light raspberry, gentle, floral on finish. Pretty. 90

Woodenhead Wiley Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2006 ($60)
Light bodied with gentle but persistent cherry and raspberry flavors. 90

Good wines a little below the top echelon
Cep Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Chasseur Blank Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Chronicle Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2006
Domaine Chandon Carneros Pinot Noir 2006
Dutton-Goldfield Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Dutton-Goldfield McDougall Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Freeman Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Freeman Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Jim Ball Vineyards Boonville Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Macrostie Carneros Pinot Noir 2007
Morgan Twelve Clones Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2007
Papapietro Perry Leras Family Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Puma Road Black Mountain Vineyards Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2007
Puma Road Black Mountain Vineyards Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2006
Roessler La Brisa Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
Roessler Red Label Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2007
Roessler Ridges Ollie & Hazel's Block Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2006
Rusack Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Rusack Santa Rita Hills Reserve Pinot Noir 2007
Sand Hill Durell Vineyard Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir 2006
Siduri Chehalem Mountain Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Tantara Brousseau Vineyard Chalone Pinot Noir 2007
Testarossa Palazzio Central Coast Pinot Noir 2007 ($35)
Testarossa Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2007 ($55)
Verve Klein Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 2007
Verve Momtazi Vineyard McMinnville Pinot Noir 2007

Not recommended
Cambria Julia's Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Jim Ball Vineyards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Maboroshi Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Paraiso Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2007
Rebecca K. Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2006
Tantara Rio Vista Vineyard Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2007
Verve Rio San Lucas Vineyard Monterey Pinot Noir 2007

Forest Glen Sonoma County Reserve -- Fred Franzia wins again

It arrived in time for Christmas: a bottle of Forest Glen Sonoma County Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, along with appropriate greetings to wine writers from Fred Franzia's Bronco Wine Co.

Bronco, the 4th largest US wine producer, makes only cheap wines: Charles Shaw ("Two Buck Chuck"), Crane Lake, Forestville, Hacienda, Harlow Ridge and dozens of other brands.

Franzia told me himself once that "No bottle of wine is worth more than $10, in my opinion."

But the Forest Glen Sonoma County Reserve Cab has a suggested retail price of $20 -- way more than the second-most expensive Bronco wine I'd ever seen (some Napa Ridge wines are $12). The bottle is heavy enough to make a great murder weapon -- a sign of ostentation from a company able to turn a profit on a $1.99 wine. Bronco made only a few hundred cases, apparently to prove to wine writers that the company can make great wine if it wants to, though fortunately for you readers a few cases made it into the marketplace.

I wish I had opened it right away, but one thing led to another and it sat in my cellar awhile. I did ask around at a few wine writer gatherings what others thought of it, and everybody I talked to who had gotten a bottle had given it away unopened. Why drink $20 Bronco wine when people send you $75 Napa Cabs on a regular basis?

This week I finally got around to opening it. And it's excellent -- a lot of wine writers must have made their landlord or barber very happy. This is the best $20 Cab I've had from California in a while, and it would do very well in a tasting of California Cabs $50 and under. I can say this confidently because I just tasted top wines in this category this week.

Tasting notes:

Forest Glen Sonoma County Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2003: Nice aroma -- ripe blackberries, cherries, plenty of fruit, a little vanilla. Hints of pomegranate and dark chocolate. Just the beginning of an aged wine aroma -- dried persimmons, leather. On the palate, nice forward fruit, ripe cherry and blackberry. Excellent balance with good acidity. The tannins haven't been rendered toothless; they leave a trail down the middle of the tongue, like a train track. Maybe not the most complex of Cabs but great fruit and balance. Just 13.3% alcohol. Great value at $20. 91

The postscript is that I had a glass of it, then headed out to dinner with two highly regarded, more expensive wines -- both of which disappointed. The Forest Glen Reserve was better. I put it in the fridge and pulled it out again last night when I opened a $55 single-vineyard Napa Merlot that got good scores. And once again, the Forest Glen Reserve was better.

Fred Franzia wins again.

Sunset Wine Awards: Expensive wines disappoint

Are "Special Occasion Wines" really worth it? How good are U.S. wines in the $30 to $50 range?

Once again I found myself asking that after judging at Sunset magazine's Western Wine Awards.

These awards are different from most in that all wines considered have to be nominated by a wine writer, rather than submitted by wineries that pay to enter. So in theory, it should be a group that ranges from good to excellent.

But that wasn't my experience in judging 51 wines in the $30 to $50 category. And while the over-$50 category has some nice wines, the quality is surprisingly variable there too. (Caveat: I'm relying on the opinion of the over-$50 category's judges, as I tasted just 15 or so of those wines, non-blind, after finishing my panel.)

If I spend $40 for an American wine, I want it to be good. I don't think this was a bad group of wines, but only a few excited me, and nothing made me drop to me knees and thank God for fermentation (though I should do that anyway on general principle.)

Another judge, a sommelier and wine industry consultant, told me this year's group of over-$50s was better than last year's, which he said was difficult to get through because of all the imbalanced, huge, over-ripe wines. I see two reasons: this year had more Pinot Noirs -- a sign of increasing prices -- and fewer "name brand" Cabernets.

So are pricey U.S. wines really that good, as a class? I think not, but we don't complain because they're not openly bad. If you order one $60 wine in a restaurant and it's "nnnh" (my feeling about approximately half the wines, and remember these all came recommended), you drink it and don't complain -- especially if it's a well-respected brand. You're not thrilled, but you're not ripped off. You forget it and move on. But when you taste it blind, without knowing the back story or having someone else praise it, you're forced to confront its mediocrity.

All of that said, I love judging at Sunset. The tasting size is manageable -- more than 60 wines becomes a slog. And we get a nice lunch from their test kitchens afterward, along with any and all of our favorites of the wines we just tasted. That sounds so simple, but it's actually quite rare on the wine judging circuit. I think it adds depth to our understanding of the wines because we get a chance to retaste them with food.

Looking at my notes, I can see that the reds I liked tended to be full-flavored. I don't think of myself as a fruit bomb guy, but I do believe in judging wines on their merits, and maybe that's what the West Coast does best. Winemakers have to work with what the sun gives them.

Here are my favorites from the $30-$50 group. I don't know the eventual winner, as I was just one of four judges. But I'd be happy to pay the retail price for any of these.

Sparkling wine:

Just one entered, but it was a beauty: 2005 Schramsberg North Coast Blanc de Blancs ($36). Complex aromas and flavors of honeycomb, toast, lemon pith. One taster said, "Can we get a second bottle of this? To take home?" 92

White wines:

2007 Ridge Monte Bello Estate Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay ($40): My favorite in this category, easily. Nicely balanced wine; toast and lemon flavors stay persistent though long finish. Burgundian in its elegance. 94

2008 St. Supery Dollarhide Ranch Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($35): Intense passion fruit flavor and aroma; nice fruit. Mollified acidity will attract some people more than others. 89

Red wines:

2006 Tantara Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($48): Juicy black cherry with nice acidity; raspberry and violet notes in aroma. Good balance, good fruit. An easy pleasure. 92

2006 Dutton-Goldfield Morelli Lane Russian River Valley Zinfandel ($40): Intense, juicy blackberry with hint of bramble and a long finish. Not particularly complex, but a great mouthful of fruit. 90

2006 Mazzocco Pony Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($32): A fruit bomb but 3-dimensional, like a blast of blackberry with all the stems and seeds. 92

2005 JC Cellars Caldwell Vineyard Napa Valley Syrah ($45): Another fruit bomb -- very ripe blackberry, rich, soft mouthfeel. Spiciness in the aroma gives it that extra attractiveness. 90

2006 Joseph Phelps Napa Valley Syrah ($32): Balanced and elegant. Blackberry flavors with notes of coffee and orange peel. 91

2005 Snow's Lake County Two Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc ($45): Jammy black raspberry with some pleasantly herbaceous bramble. Nice mouthfeel -- mostly smooth, but a little prickly to give it some presence. Well-integrated. 90

2006 Abeja Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($43): Voluptuous wine. Ripe and rich with good blackberry fruit and a little toast. Lots of tannins but they're very well managed. 92

The wines below were wines from other categories that I enjoyed at lunch, but since I didn't taste them blind in context (plus I had just tasted more than 50 wines) I don't feel right giving them scores. Still, nice wines all:

2007 Macrostie Carneros Chardonnay ($23) -- Burgundian in a good way

2006 Landmark Steel Plow The Kivelstadt Family Vineyard Sonoma Valley Syrah ($29.99) -- I wish this had fallen into my category, because it was fantastic. Another taster called it "the best northern Rhone I've had in a long time."

2007 Kutch McDougall Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($80) -- Maybe the nicest of the pricey Pinots I tasted, but it wasn't my panel. With that caveat, an excellent wine

2006 Dutton-Goldfield Devil's Gulch Vineyard Marin County Pinot Noir ($55) -- Controversial enough to engender continued debate. Some felt it was too powerful for Marin County. All I will say is I liked it with my lamb chop.

2000 Schramsberg J. Schram Brut Rosé ($130) -- Schramsberg is by far the best bubbly maker in the U.S. Elegant, delicious, refined, refreshing. I could drink this every day.

Also, I really liked the 2003 Erba Mountainside Vineyard Napa Valley Merlot ($38), which was at its peak, wonderfully complex and sophisticated, yet smooth and satisfying. However, it turned out to be a ringer, as Erba has released at least two vintages since, so I won't rate it. But if you find some at that price, buy it.

Oakland A's Merlot: It's a hit

The Oakland A's can't hit. But they can ferment.

Tonight I finally tried this year's version of A's brand Merlot, once again made from Napa Valley fruit by Markham Vineyards.

Markham president Bryan Del Bondio is a big baseball fan. The winery doesn't make a big profit from producing a few hundred cases of A's Brand Merlot, but Del Bondio does get to go to a few ballgames. Of course, this will be more fun when the A's get some offense. But a nice plastic glass of A's Merlot (a relative bargain at $7.50) does make the current rebuilding season more palatable.

This is just what you want in a ballpark red: It's rich and smooth, with nice black fruit flavor and no rough edges. I smelled a bit of lumber (oak) but didn't taste any. It went nicely with my French dip sandwich. One could argue that a wine with a little more acidity -- a Sangiovese, for example -- would be good with sausages, garlic fries and the like. But this wine has the advantage of being quite pleasant on its own -- the soft tannins are why people liked "a glass of Merlot" in the first place -- and most ballpark drinking takes place without food.

One year, I hope to toast an A's title with this stuff. Until then, at least the A's have one good thing the Yankees and Red Sox do not. Where's your NY brand Long Island Riesling, Mr. Steinbrenner?

Why is anyone still using plastic corks?

Wine writers tend to mention only two types of closures: natural corks and screwcaps. Plastic "corks" make up about 20% of the market -- twice as much as screwcaps -- but we tend to ignore them.

This is a mistake on all of our parts. There are good arguments to be made for natural cork, and good arguments for screwcaps.

There's really no reason whatsoever to use a plastic closure. They're inferior in every way.

Plastic "corks" let in oxygen at a far higher rate than natural cork, and of course much higher than screwcaps, for which oxygen entry is still an issue. The air entry increases over time, so that if a wine with a plastic cork sits around for 2 years, it probably has already started to oxidize. Thus you should look carefully at the closures on wines in the discount bin or at Trader Joe's.

There are two reasons wineries choose plastic over natural cork: price, and the absence of TCA, the cause of "cork taint" that can spoil a wine.

The cork industry has eliminated reason 1 by producing cheap corks made up from amalgamated cork particles. Industry reps say these are actually less likely to have TCA than more expensive corks because they have more surface area to treat. Without consulting an independent scientist, I can't say whether that's true or not. But they are price-competitive with plastic.

As for reason 2, fear of TCA is a legitimate reason to switch from cork. But why switch to plastic, which you know is going to lead to oxidized wines? That's just trading one flaw for another. If you really fear TCA, use screwcaps.

I admit that I'm ignoring the market reality that many older Americans think there's no romance in opening a bottle with a screwcap. Let me tell you, there's no romance in breaking your corkscrew on a plastic cork, as I have done more than once.

I'm not sure why nobody writes about plastic closures. Most of the big U.S. wine companies use them: Constellation, Gallo, the Wine Group, Jackson Family Estates. Consumers need to tell them that we don't want plastic.