Wines to drink with crabcakes

I'm from Baltimore, which gives me strong opinions about crabcakes (aka the world's best food). 

They should be mostly crab, with minimal filler. We use a tiny amount of mayo, along with a small smattering of breadcrumbs to make up about 5% of the total volume. With Old Bay, though, take the amount you think it needs and triple it, at least. My wife, who is from Japan where seafood is spiced more delicately, is astounded by how much Old Bay I can shake onto a crabcake.

But even with a generous amount of spice, a crabcake is still a very delicate food. It's also expensive, and like me, you might have ordered your crabcakes online. So you've got a special dish -- I often order crabcakes for my birthday -- and you want to choose a wine that is worthy of it, while not overpowering it.

First, I'm sorry, but red wines are out. This is not some old wine-rules thing: I sometimes drink red wine with fish, especially salmon. But you won't taste the crab if your mouth is full of red wine. Moreover, Old Bay will make the wine taste more harshly alcoholic. 

Rosé wines are a bit better. I like rosés with some shellfish dishes, notably French-style mussels and fries. But it's still a sub-ideal wine with one of the world's most ideal foods.

When I take the trouble to order crabcakes, I want them to shine. I avoid strong-flavored side dishes; mashed potatoes are my favorite crabcake side. And I choose a wine that's delicious but doesn't overpower the crab. 

The right answer is white or sparkling.

You can never go wrong with Champagne. If a food goes well with any wine, it will usually go reasonably well with Champagne. I also like Prosecco with crab; Proseccos tend to be sweeter than Champagne, and sweetness goes well with spicy dishes, so Prosecco gets more appealing the more Old Bay you use. (Looking for an upscale Prosecco? I got you covered.)

Chardonnay is the main grape of Champagne and Chardonnay is a very good crab pairing. I don't personally like buttery Chardonnays, but there's a reason that wineries make Chardonnays buttery (it's a winemaking choice) and not other wines: Chardonnay goes great with butter. Try it with popcorn sometime. That said, a crisp, unoaked, slightly floral Chardonnay with a crabcake is also delightful.

Most white wines will be pretty good with crabcakes. I like dry Riesling with a crabcake but like most wine experts, I like dry Riesling more than the average person. I don't especially like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with crab because it's too overwhelming; it's better to reach for a Sancerre or another restrained style of Sauvignon Blanc. 

Sometimes I like a very neutral white wine, like Pinot Blanc, with crabcakes. Semillon is terrific with crab; it's a top choice for me (especially if I have one from Hunter Valley), but varietal Semillons in the US are rare.

Just remember, the crab should be the star of the meal. Choose a wine to be the Best Supporting Actor.

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