Pickles present pairing problems. Potential partners prefer pasta, pizza, perhaps pretzels. Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers, but where's the pairing tips for the peck of pickled peppers Peter Piper picked?
I never found that tongue twister difficult, not like saying "toy boat" 10 times fast. But actually finding a wine to go with pickles, that's another story. Vinegar and hot spice are death to most wines; vinegar can make wines taste thin and acidic, which is why green salads are hard to pair with, and hot spice can make alcohol feel hotter. Many pickles also have sugar, which can make less-sweet wines taste sour.
My friend and former colleague
Jonathan Kauffman, now the San Francisco editor of Tasting Table, is making a variety of pickles at home, to his partner's occasional chagrin, as you'll understand if you know the smell of fermenting cabbage. I invited myself over for dinner to see if I could pair wines with his handiwork.
Jonathan made five kinds of pickles, and the longtime restaurant critic has a deft hand because they were very different and I liked them all:
* Fermented brussel sprouts with curry leaf, garlic and fenugreek: the spiciest and most complex
* Simple sauerkraut with dill
* Turnips pickled with vinegar and salt; the most "pickley"
* Carrots buried in red miso for two months: mild and a little sweet
* Fuyu persimmons pickled with ginger and long pepper: Sweet and spicy.
Choosing wines to bring to Jonathan's place was a multi-level challenge. I wanted things I would enjoy drinking, but also didn't want to take a great wine and waste it on an evening when we wouldn't appreciate it.